Monday, March 25, 2013

Macro for me!

I really enjoy taking close-up pictures of things, mainly flowers and butterflies. Up until now, I have only used magnification lenses to produce such close-up images. I never tried bellows or extension tubes. For the most part I am happy with what I have gotten so far. However, I finally broke down and bought a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens for Canon SLR Cameras. The reviews for this lens are excellent and it is nearly $450 less than the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro Lens for Canon Digital SLR Cameras and over $1000 less than their big brother Canon EF 180mm f3.5L Macro USM AutoFocus Telephoto Lens for Canon SLR Cameras. The price difference was a big motivator for me in getting this lens vs the others. 

I personally did not think the 60mm Canon lens would give me enough distance between me and butterflies (which one of my favorite subjects) so a minimum of 100mm is what I was looking for. More distance than that and the lenses were out of my price range. I have already taken some pictures with the new lens and I am quite excited about what I can really do with it. I will share some of those pictures a little later. 

For now, here is my macro set-up:

Camera: Canon 60D
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro Lens
Tripod: Vanguard Alta Pro 263AT Aluminum Alloy Tripod Legs with Multi-Angle Central Column System
Flash/Lighting:  Polaroid PL-MRL16 Digital Macro 16 LED Ring Light


Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Camera RAW for Beginners

I found this series of tutorials on Camera Raw at Phototuts+ which I am very excited about. Camera Raw comes with Photoshop but also with Photoshop Elements. Although the Photoshop Elements version does not have all the features of the Photoshop one. If you have the pared down version of ACR like I do, then not all of these tutorials will apply. However, I found them all to be very helpful.

Their description of this series is:

"The Phototuts+ Camera RAW Session focuses exclusively on teaching you how to become a complete Adobe Camera RAW ninja. We’re bringing together a series of video and written tutorials that will teach you everything you need to know about this fantastic piece of software!"

 So far they have 8 separate tutorials with the following topic:

  • Histogram & White Balance
  • Basic Adjustments
  • Clarity, Vibrance, & Saturation
  • Basic Adjustments in Action
  • Tone Curve
  • The Detail Tool
  • Adjustments Brush - Part 1
  • Adjustments Brush - Part 2

Deconstructing a Photograph Video by Mitchell Kanashkevich



This video was created by Prolific travel photographer Mitchell Kanashkevich. In this video he chose a photograph of his and talked about the background of the photo and the process of taking the photo in the first place. He describes how he chose his subject and waited for the proper lighting and most pleasing composition. After he explains how he took the photo, he goes over the post-processing steps he undertook. In this case, he used Lightroom for post-processing and this is where the video turns into a true tutorial. He shows you all the exact steps he took to take this photo from good to outstanding. I highly recommend it even if you don’t have Lightroom. Here is a link to his his blog where this tutorial exists but I have also embedded the video into this page for your convenience.



I would also recommend you take a look around his whole website. He has many beautiful, inspiring photos and an excellent and entertaining blog.

Monday, March 4, 2013

Raynox DCR-250 2.5x Super Macro Conversion Lens Review


I recently bought this lens and I would like to share my experience with it. 

Disclaimer: the attached images were taken just to show what this equipment looks like and to point out visually what I am referring to in this review. By no means they are meant to show my photographic prowess so please forgive the poor quality.

The manufacturer’s description of the Raynox DCR-250 is:

The DCR-250 Super Macro lens obtains the maximum macro magnification power with the camera lens set at the most telephoto zoom position. The lens is made of high index optical glass, which produce rich and razor sharp image. The lens includes a Snap-on universal mount suitable for 52mm to 67mm filter sizes.



Magnification
2.5x
Rear Mount Diameter
43mm (52 to 67mm with included Snap-on mount)
Front Mount Diameter
49mm
Construction, Elements/Groups
3E/2G
Lens Diameter
2.1" (53mm)
Length
0.7" (18mm)
Weight
2.1 oz (60g)



The package contains
  •  Snap-on Universal Adapter for 52mm to 67mm Mount
  • The actual 2.5x Super Macro Lens
  • Carry box
  • 1 Year Warranty        
This lens is a less expensive option to buying a true macro lens. It is on par, cost wise, to close-up lenses, extension tubes, and teleconverters. This lens is more appropriate for a user who is just starting out with macro photography and does not have the budget to buy a “true” macro lens. If you are serious about specializing in macro photography this is probably not for you but it is a good starting point.
How it works is that it allows you to get much closer to the subject than you could without it. This is what allows you to get a magnified view of the subject. For this reason, this lens is only good for still life photography such as flowers. If you are taking pictures of moving things such as insects, this will not work for you. The little critter will likely fly away in terror before you get anywhere near it to be in focus.
The Raynox DCR-250 Macro Attachment has a magnification factor of 2.5X but it also comes in a magnification factor of 1.5X in the DCR-150.

My Experience:

When you are getting so close to the subject depth of field is extremely reduced. Therefore, you will need a sturdy tripod, use manual focus, and a remote trigger control to reduce any motion.  Since the depth of field is so small in this close range you really need to use focus stacking to get more of the subject in focus. Very good lighting is a must because the light that comes through this lens is quite reduced. The image quality you get is actually very good. You can see details you would not otherwise be able to view. 2.5 magnification is in the extremely macro range.

Another positive is that it is very easy to put on and take off due to the Snap-on Universal mount that goes with it. In the field this comes in very handy since you will likely be using the same lens for general photography and just putting on this magnifier when you want to shoot a macro. It is also very light and comes in a plastic carrying case in which to store it during transport.I would describe the “snap-on” more like a “squeeze the side buttons, place inside the lens edge and let go” action. But still that is very easy and quick to do.

This lens and the universal attachment are quite thick (21mm) so there is quite a distance between the front of the element and the front of my lens.



The Canon lens has a filter size 67mm wide while the Raynox DCR-250 glass is 43 mm.


This leads me to my biggest pet peeve, the extreme vignetting in my photos. If you use a longer zoom the vignetting is so severe that it makes the image almost unusable for large prints. Because of this you have to always crop the image reducing substantially the size of the subject on your image. Had I known that, I might not have bought this lens. I also have a set of close-up lenses and while incoming light is also reduced, there is no such vignetting which gives me much more space on the image itself to include the subject. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to have to crop every image that I take. I’d like to get my composition right in camera and not have to worry about cropping it later to make it work. Here is an example. This picture is right out of the camera and un-cropped. I only re-sized it for web:



Another negative, might be that you can’t attach your lens hood if you need to use it outdoor. So far this has not been an issue for me.

One thing I found very useful is the little plastic box it comes in. It is very handy for storage and transportation. If you use the sponge that comes with it, it will keep it from bouncing around as well.


The lens neatly screws into the adapter mount and I did not have issues screwing it and unscrewing it. It does attach firmly and I don't see how it would come off during normal use.


There is also a little cap that goes over the glass to protect it from scratches. This one is not that easy to put on and take off. I guess that could be good in that it will not "fall off" easily. Otherwise it is a pain.


The adapter is very easy to put on. You just need to squeeze the 2 side tabs, place them on the lip of your camera lens and let go. They attach firmly and I have not had it fall off yet.
 



Here is my list of Pros and Cons.

Pros:

More affordable than macro lenses
Extreme magnification
Easy to install and store
Very good image quality
Lightweight and portable

Cons:

Shorter depth of field than other options
Manual focus needed
Tripod required
Not recommended for use with moving subjects
Must be able to get very close to the subject to get the image in focus




How to order:

I bought mine on Amazon for about $80.00.
It is also available at B&HPhotoVideo  for about the same price.
These are the 2 places where I buy most of my photography equipment and highly recommend either one for good customer service and cost.

Friday, January 18, 2013

What to look for in a monitor for photo editing


I recently embarked on a quest to buy a new monitor for photo editing. Currently, I have an HP Pavilion dv6-6140us laptop. I find that the colors on the display are very unreliable and I have to constantly move the display up and down so I can view the image at different angles and hope to find an accurate angle. After I edit the image, I have to take it to a couple of other monitors available to me to see how it looks there and try to get as close as possible.

Therefore, I need a new monitor.

When I first started looking for a monitor I had no idea what I needed to look for specifically in a monitor that would be good for photo editing. Many of the discussions and articles on the internet referred to gaming monitors. However, there were a few that had more specific information for photo editing. A little bit here and a little bit there and I came up with this list of important things to consider when looking for a new monitor. One thing to note is that my budget was less than $500 dollars.

Monitor type:

The first thing to look for is the monitor type: CRT, LCD or OLED. Being that CRTs are no longer made and OLED monitors are still prohibitedly expensive that leaves me with an LCD monitor by default. Not all LCD monitors are the same. The differences among them are due to the display technology used, the size of the display, and any additional features it might have. All of these will of course affect the price as well.

You’ll find 3 kinds of LCD technologies.

  • TN (Twisted Nematic) –These are the most common types of monitors available and the cheapest. This is the kind that lighten/change color when you touch them. These monitors are better for gaming since they have very fast response times. However, their color depth is only 6-bit color which yields a total of 262,144 colors. Viewing angles are limited to 160 / 160 degrees at most which is quite narrow. This will be most critical when you are using multiple monitors but even with just one monitor you have to center your head to that very small sweet spot in the center of the monitor. Any deviation from there and the colors start to fade rapidly. Their contrast ratios are also very low.  You should definitely not get one of these.
  • IPS (In-plane Viewing) – These are considered the very best because they give the widest color gamut and viewing angles.  IPS technology’s color depth is 8-bit for a total of 16.7-million colors. Typical viewing angles with these are 178 / 178. Response time is slower than TN but that does not affect photo editing as much as it does for gaming. This is the type I am looking for.
  • VA (Vertical Alignment) – It has the same viewing angle or slightly less as the IPS ones but there is a significant color change to the wider end of the viewing angle. The response time is supposed to be slower than IPS but comparing current monitors out there I did not find a substantial difference. Contrast ratio is as much as 5000:1 which is much better as compared to 1000:1 in IPS. This type is a no also.

Monitor Size:

A monitor size of 23 to 27 inches is more within my price range.  If you have a tight budget then look for the smaller sized, 23 inches or smaller, that have uniform color and accuracy. Monitors of 27 inches or greater are considered mid-range and therefore a bit more expensive. I chose to look for something more in the middle. In my case, that means a 24” monitor.

Resolution: 

The most common resolutions between 20” to 25” monitor screen sizes are “1920 x 1080 (16:9)” and “1920 x 1200” (16:10). “1920 x 1200” gives you more vertical space on your display which is preferable.

A broad viewing angle. 

It is easy to understand that a broader viewing angle is better.


   


 This is a 160 degree angle         This is a 178 degree angle


Ambient light reflection:

Ambient light reflection is the amount of light that reflects off the display from the room lights. Reflected light or glare can be very fatiguing to the eyes and reduces the contrast, colors and sharpness of the display. When you are editing a bunch of photos from a photo shoot you will spend a lot of time staring at the computer. For your eye’s sake choose one with a non-reflective surface.

Static Contrast ratio:

This is the difference between deepest black and highest white. Typically, computer displays have a contrast ratio of about 1,000:1. Dynamic contrast ratio (DCR) is a different animal entirely and should not be used to compare with the static contrast ratio. A static contrast ratio is the contrast ratio at a given point in time such as when viewing a static image. A dynamic contrast ratio is the overall contrast ratio the display can produce over time which is more important when viewing a movie.  It is always better to go for monitors that have a higher contrast ratio.

Extended color gamut:

Color gamut refers to the range of colors the screen is capable of displaying. In other words, how much of a given reference color space (sRGB, Adobe RGB, or NTSC) it can display. You will commonly see a monitor's gamut listed as a percentage compared with a reference color space. More colors = Better.

Response time:

Response time refers to how quickly the pixels can change from one color to another, and therefore how fast the picture can be redrawn. A faster response time helps reduce the effects of blurring and ghosting in games and movies. Look for faster but don’t get stuck on this one as it is not as “important” for photo editing.

Brightness or Luminance:

This refers to the amount of light the monitor can put out. Too much brightness on your monitor can make your eyes hurt over time. Brightness along with contrast ratio directly affects the color dynamic range of the display. Look for something in the 100-400 range.

Pixel Pitch:

The pixel pitch is related to the distance between pixels. The pixel pitch on desktop monitors should be a maximum of .28 mm. A larger pixel pitch may result in a monitor image that is not sharp enough. Many desktop or laptop monitors have pixel pitches as small as .27 mm, .26 mm or even .25 mm. The smaller the pixel pitch is, the sharper the image.

Conclusion:

After considering all of these things my search was narrowed down to the Dell UltraSharp U2412M and the Asus PA246Q. The monitor size, viewing angle, resolution, contrast ratio, pixel pitch is the same in both monitors. 

The main differences between the 2 are as follows:


  • Color Depth - The Dell UltraSharp U2412M has IPS which is the original version of IPS and can display only 16.7 million colors. Asus PA246Q has p-IPS ('Performance IPS) which is a newer technology and capable of displaying 1.07 billion colors. The Dell UltraSharp U2412M’s color gamut is 74.3%(Adobe RGB), 95.8%(sRGB), and 71%(NTSC) . While the Asus PA246Q color gamut is much better at 98%(Adobe RGB), 100%(sRGB), and 102%(NTSC) .
  • Brightness in the Dell UltraSharp U2412M is up to 300 cd/m2. The Asus PA246Q has up to 400 cd/m2.
  • Response time in the Dell UltraSharp U2412M is 8ms while the Asus PA246Q is 6ms fast.
  • The Asus PA246Q has more controls & adjustment options than the Dell UltraSharp U2412M:
    • Dell UltraSharp U2412M: Brightness, Contrast, Color temperature.
    • Asus PA246Q: Color temperature, Input select, Color balance, Aspect control, Brightness, Contrast.
  • The Asus PA246Q has more connectivity options that I prefer over the Dell UltraSharp U2412M:
    • Asus PA246Q: VGA, DVI-D, Headphones, DisplayPort, HDMI, 2 x USB downstream, USB upstream ( Type B )
    • Dell UltraSharp U2412M: VGA, DVI-D, DisplayPort, USB 2.0 upstream ( Type B ), 4 x USB 2.0 downstream


I could get the Dell UltraSharp U2412M at Amazon for $296.99. The Asus PA246Q is available at Amazon as well but for $324.52. While both of these monitors are excellent and even with the slight price difference the Asus PA246Q is the clear winner for me.



Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Photo Critique Sites Review


For many who are relatively inexperienced in the world of photography and many who have a bit more experience, we need a way to gauge how good our pictures truly are and how far along are we in the learning curve. Many time when we are editing our own photos we realize right away that the photo is not a good one and it is quickly thrown in the trash bin.

However, there are times when we are not sure how great of a picture it is. Other times, we are certain it is an amazing picture and would like corroboration that it is. Basically, we want someone to review out photos and provide an honest critique of your photo and make suggestions for improvement. Unless you have personal access to a successful, professional photographer that specializes in your area(s) of interested this can become a very difficult task.

There are many websites out there that allow you to upload an image and have other users comment on them. In most of these sites anyone can comment. Therefore some sites are more “brutal” than others. While some sites are not very “educational” because the user’s comments are more general.

In this series of blogs I will attempt to review some that I have used. This by no means an exhaustive review of each site but just a quick take on them. The first site I have reviewed is:







In their About page they describe themselves as follows:

photoSIG is a community of photographers and photography enthusiasts, ranging from amateurs to working professionals. photoSIG members who submit photographs are expected to write critiques for others .

photoSIG is designed to be self-maintaining. The worthiness, or unworthiness, of photos and critiques submitted by users is determined by the user community. Users have the opportunity to comment and critique, favorably or unfavorably, on photos and on critiques submitted by other users. In addition to the editorial control exerted by the community via the rating system, photoSIG itself also attempts to encourage high-quality critiques by only allowing critiques that conform to photoSIG's quality standard to affect a photographer's rating.

Features:

  • Featured Photographer
Once per hour as photographer is seletected and featured in the home page. The system totals up the photo points that each user has received during the past 7 days.

  • Featured Photo Critic
This one is selected the same way as the Featured Photographer but the system usses critique points rather than photo points.

  • Assignments 
Periodically they issue a sort of challenge to users who are given a subject and are asked to submit photos that features the subject given. There is no actual "price" except to have a focus to your next pictures and encourage you to experiment.

  • Membership types
There are 2 membership types available. One is the "Basic Membership" which is free. With this membership type you can upload one photo every 72 hours or more often depending how many points you earn by critiquing other photos.

The other membership type is a "Premium Membership" which at the time of this writing is $25/year. With this membership type you can upload images more often, avoid seeing ads in the site and receive email notifications.

  • Your personal area
In photoSig your personal area is called "mySig". In this area you will find quick access to all the photos you have uploaded, all the critiques you have given to other users and a listing of the discussions you have participated in. You have the ability to create "portfolios" (folders) for you images and upload images to each different one so you can remain organized. Other users can view the photos you have in your portfolios at any time. Indeed, even if you remove a photo you had submitted, a thumbnail still remains visible. At least this is the case when a photo has been reviewed.

  • Forum
There is a forum area for users to discuss a variety of subjects related to photography.


The actual photo critique process:

You are able to upload images as allowed in your membership type. They all go into a pool of photos in order that they were uploaded. Users can organize the photos by a variety of options such as camera type, category, lens, etc, or view the default option which is "all". Photos need to be jpeg or gif and smaller than 360k.

When you upload your image other users can view them and critique them. Each critique needs to be at least 15 words in length. You also have to select a rating in the form of thumbs up/down from three thumbs up to three thumbs down. Other than that, there are no other qualifications required to submit critiques. If you have a membership, you can critique photos right away. This means that the comments seen on your photo can come from people completely new to photography all the way to professional photographers. You have to take the good with the bad.


My experience:

I have uploaded 5 images so far as a test. All of them I personally like and think they came out pretty good which is why I uploaded them. Here are the images and the critiques I have received on each one.I am respectfully including their comments on this blog with the knowledge that it is their own personal opinion of my photos. My intention is that you view the image and their critique and make your own judgement of it's validity. I personally, accept all of these are as a good effort of the reviewer to be objective and offer suggestions on how the photo could be made better next time. Any spelling and/or grammatical errors are those of the reviewer. Also keep in mind that these are people from all over the world and for many English is not their native language.

Image # 1: "Didn't make it south"



Critiques:


"nice cute subjects, but really needs to be pin sharp on both birds if they are both in the shot. Maybe a lower angle without the front rock would be nice."

"Ducks usaully will not move on unless the ice is completely frozen. I would have like to see the object in front bottom taken out. I really wrecks this pic"

Image #2: "Grass"





"Nice grass close up photo, but background is a bit distracting aspecially white road on the right side. There is also a tree branch in the foreground that is distracting. IMO a different composition would be better."

Image #3: "Firework"


Critiques:

"Good exposure, Gisel. I would crop it square, centered and rotated upside down. Just my opinion, regards"

"Indeed, this work looks like an abstract, I mean this shape, which created this firework. Balck color of background gives a good color contrast here. However due to the fact that some parts of this firework are cutted in down part of photo and on the right side of photo, I would prefer to see a little bit more space in down and on the right side of photo. Regards"

"Fantastic exposure, what a great capture! I would wish for a full image of the explosion, but that is just a small nit to pick. Very nice."

Image #4: "Lion"


Critiques:


"nice portrait of jungle king Gisal good details nice colors but i saw a shadow on forehead of lion and for me cropping is bite tight from down side Regards"

"Good picture portrait of this Lion, well done. However I would prefer to see a little bit more space in don and on the right side of photo. In my opinion it is a pity that Lion's feet are cutted on the right side of photo. Beside I would prefer to try with reduce intensivity of brightness from Lion's feet. Regards,"

"This would appear to be a zoo shot. There is a straight line shadow on his head caused by something not in the image. The image is quite grainy (noisy) and looks a tad over sharpened. The contrast is very high which makes the picture look almost posterized. I would crop off the bottom bit to eliminate the over exposed feet."

Image #5: "Green Bird"


Critiques:

"Beautiful and so colorful bird you captured Gisel good contrast nice colors good use of light and angle but i am agree with Michal a little more space in down part of photo good pose of little bird attractive good work Regards"

"Nice capture of this little and colorful bird and his pose. Bird is situated in a good place in this frame not central. However and due to the fact that a part of bird's "foot" is cutted in down part of photo, maybe it is intentionally here, I would prefer to see a little more space in down part of photo. Regards"

"What an amazing bird! If only the rock behind the beak weren't over exposed. They kind of blend together. It's also a shame that you didn't capture the whole bird. What a beautiful bird. I hope you get a chance to photograph him again."

"Beautiful bird, but I dislike the blown out white area around it's beak. The bird also miss some sharpness (do you really have taken this photo with 1/4 sec - if yes, you should increase the iso). I also don't like the composition, you have cropped its tail and it looks like he's buckling backwards. I thought about giving 1 td but the bird itself is beautiful and maybe not too easy to catch... Regards"


Conclusion:

Visually I find this site un-appealing. Being a photography critique site and having a "visually" sensitive audience I would expect it to be a bit, well, prettier. It appears to have been designed back in 2001 and never updated. The menus tend to be convoluted and not very user friendly.

As far as the critiques themselves... what should you expect from this site? Brutal honesty when warranted and little "fluff". By fluff I mean those comments that just say: "Great photo", " I really like it", etc. While those are nice to hear, I am typically looking for more details than that. If you liked it, why? The negative comments do hurt but if you can get past the language being used you can learn a lot at this site. I have even learned a lot from viewing other reviews. All in all, I do recommend it if you have a sincere desire to learn and improve your photography.

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Focus Stacking in Macro Photography

This technique is primarily used in macro photography. Depth of Field (DOF) is limited by default in macro photography because you have to get very close to the subject. Typically you will want to use a small aperture (F11 to F/16 is recommended) with either a slow shutter speed (around 1/250), bright lighting, and/or a high ISO.

The slower the shutter speed the more likely you will capture motion which will reduce sharpness. A high ISO will introduce noise into the picture as well. Whether you are using an actual macro lens, a telephoto lens with macro capabilities, or a close-up filter and the minimum focus range available on it will also make a difference on your DOF. In other words, all kinds of things can reduce the DOF and/or sharpness in macro photography.

To get a completely sharp close-up picture of a small object you can use the technique called Focus Stacking. In focus stacking you need to obtain multiple images of the same subject at different focus points of the subject. The subject needs to be still while you are taking the pictures or the images will not align properly in post processing. Therefore, you will want to control wind around the subject. It also means, unfortunately, dead insects. I have heard that if you catch a live bug and put it in the freezer for a little while they will stay still long enough to take some photos without killing them. I personally, do not want to test this.

The first part of this process is to get the necessary images.
  • Set your camera to full manual mode (flash, shutter and aperture) to manual.
  • If your camera has live preview enable this feature and zoom in on the display so you can see clearly where the focus point is for each particular shot.
  • Use a steady tripod.
  • Use a cable release or remote control to minimize camera shake when you press the shutter button.
  • If you camera has the ability to lock the camera mirror, use this feature as well, if possible (i.e. you have the patience to set it up). This article has a very good explanation and examples of how camera shake can be introduced when the mirror flips up while the image is captured. http://www.cameratechnica.com/2011/04/26/dslr-mirror-lock-up-worth-the-effort-or-not/
  • Set your lens to manual focusing so you can slowly move the image’s point of focus for each capture.
  • For this technique try to create soft, even lighting around your subject. See this article on how to create a cheap macro photo studio: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html.
  • Take as many photos as you can, 30+ is not unheard of, starting at one end and ending at the other end. The number of pictures you need to take will depend on the DOF you have available with your particular settings and the size of the object. Obviously, an image of a bee at very close range will require more photos than a flower at a longer distance. The closer you get to the subject the shorter the DOF will be.
  • Try to leave sufficient room all around the image for cropping later on in the editing process.
In addition to these manual techniques there is software available that allows you to remote control your camera from a computer using a USB cable. Typically, these kinds of software will allow you to display live images on the PC screen, auto focus and manually control focus from the PC, see large high quality previews of shots immediately after shooting it.

There are many more out there. I just found these on a quick Google search. I have not used any of them so I cannot comment on how good or bad they might be. Always check out reviews of any software you plan to install on your computer and use with your camera.

To actually stack the images you took you can use focus stacking specialized software. Some of them are listed below. You can do this manually in any image editing program that supports layers and masks. As you can image the manual method is more labor intensive and time consuming.

These are some examples of stacking software that does this automatically:
You can see some examples of focus stacked photos on these sites:

Flickr Slideshow of user submitted examples: